We got up early this morning to take full advantage of all New Orleans has to offer. Since we were on a budget, big ticket entertainment was not on the plan for us. We chose instead to do some educational activities.
As a musician, but not a huge jazz fan, I had decided that it was my musical duty to explore the Jazz History of this fantastic city. So, I started with the New Orleans Jazz National Historical park website where you can go to download an audio walking tour of historic New Orleans Jazz sites. I got the tour downloaded to my mp3 player and printed out the tour map.
After a quick breakfast at Krystal burgers, we were off. We actually started out on Bourbon Street and found Edison Place a.k.a. Musician's Park where there is a little cafe that also serves breakfast. Wish I'd known that before we at at Krystal burgers!!! I quickly got my photo with Fats Domino, Al Hirt, and Pete Fountain before venturing off towards Louis Armstrong Park to begin the audio tour.
On the corner of N. Rampart and Dumaine streets is this building, built around 1835, with the galleries most likely added in the 1850's. In 1944, J&M Amusements acquired the building and Cosmio Matassa soon opened the J&M Recording Studio.
Oscar "Papa" Celestin, Danny Barker, and the Dukes of Dixieland all recorded Jazz here. The "New Orleans Sound" developed from pioneering rhythm and blues and rock and roll recordings made here between 1947 and 1956 by Paul Gaytin, Annie Laurie, Roy Brown, Dave Bartholomew, Fats Domino, Professor Longhair, Smiley Lewis, Joe Turner, Guitar Slim, Shirley & Lee, Lloyd Price, Jerry Lee Lewis, Ray Charles, Little Richard, and others. Sadly, this building is now a laundromat.
We wandered around some more and found Preservation Hall. I was looking forward to sitting and resting in the shade a bit but, unfortunately, Preservation Hall's operating hours are only in the evenings. Preservation Hall was founded in 1961 to protect and honor New Orleans Jazz. It is also a great spot to take the kiddos and introduce them to the great Jazz music. Admission is only $12!!
We rested in the shade a little before heading out to our next stop at 1026 Conti street. This building was the site of the last operating house of prostitution in the once thriving Tango Belt. Once an area of respectable theatres and cabarets, it quickly supported the milder side of the "sporting life:" prize-fighting, proto-jazz music, alcohol, and dance halls. When Storyville's future became uncertain, sub-rosa drugs and prostitution completed the picture here.
Our next stop was 401 S. Rampart Street, where we learned a little about Black Storyville/Chinatown where this building housed Jake Itzkovich's Eagle Loan Office until about 1907. When he relocated, Frank Douroux opened his 2nd tavern on the block in 1908 and named themselves after the saloon - the Eagle Band, which was Buddy Bolden's band...sans Bolden who at that time was institutionalized in the state insane asylum. The third floor was the ballroom for the combined Odd Fellows/Masonic Lodge which had this lodge in an adjacent building at 1116 Perdido Street. Buddy Bolden's, John Robichaux's, and Buck Johnson's groups played for dances in the ballroom. Looks sad doesn't it?